Daily affirmations of a word mercenary
This weekend Dre and I went on a little retreat to Harbin Hotsprings, a hippie hotsprings resort a few hours north of SF. We have a friend who lives/works there with his partner, and we figured what better excuse to visit than having a hippie host to show us the ropes?
We had a most delicious weekend filled with soaking and hiking and talking and sitting by waterfalls and laying naked in the sun and just generally enjoying ourselves. If you’re a particular kind of person, you should DEFINITELY head to Harbin immediately.
As for what kind of person that might be, I’ll repost the review I just wrote on Yelp … partially in response to some of the other reviewers who were like ZOMG GROSS - HIPPIES R NAKEDZ!!11!!!1@!! …
Wow, reading some of the other reviews kind of shocked me — very much NOT the experience I had at Harbin, and I feel the need to get a couple things out there:
YES, PEOPLE ARE NAKED
I was told twice when making reservations that Harbin is “clothing optional,” so there was no surprise for me when we showed up to the pools and found a sea of naked people of all shapes, ages, sizes, colors, etc. I’m unsure why so many of the reviewers here seem so shocked by this. Where there is warm water and hippies, there is nakedness. Lots of nakedness.
YES, IT IS NEW AGEY
Again, I came fully prepared for this and was greatly amused by it. Undoubtedly, you’ll talk to people who name-drop Yucatan tribal elders and the latest medicinal herbs. Like any religious folk, the practitioners of new age spirituality can get pretentious, dogmatic, and totally laughable — but when you strip it down, the moral of the story is “be quiet and take some time for yourself,” and I’m good with that. If you can’t laugh a little at the newage (rhymes with sewage), then Harbin might not work for you.
NO, PEOPLE AREN’T FUCKING EVERYWHERE
Or rather, they probably are, but not out in public. Yes, the pools are full of naked bodies, and yes some people are touching. But while I saw folks massaging each other’s shoulders, chastely hugging, and touching foreheads in that “we’re spiritually bonded” way, I saw absolutely no groping, making out, humping (dry or wet), rubbing, etc etc. I’m trying to figure out if all the reviewers indicating otherwise just managed to catch a lecherous incident, or whether folks are projecting? No clue.
Now, on to my actual review:
This was my first trip to Harbin, after having heard several hippie/burner friends from the Bay Area talk about it for years. The location is a bit of a pain for out of towners — we flew into Oakland, rented a car, and drove 2 hours north to get to Harbin. The location is beautiful and worth it, though. Nestled in a valley between two steep oak forest-covered hillsides, with a creek running through the middle.
We stayed in Azalea in a basic room — we had a nice double bed, but shared a bathroom with other visitors. This arrangement worked just fine for us, but if you’re a germaphobe it might not be to your liking. Actually, if you’re a germaphobe Harbin might not be to your liking.
I really appreciated the aesthetics of the grounds — there was art and metal work and masonry everywhere, and parts felt distinctly Gaudi influenced. The grounds were beautiful at night. I loved all the hidden little corners you could find — there’s an amazing root-draped waterfall surrounded by fig trees a stones throw from the guest rooms, but every time I went back to enjoy it, there was no one else there! Wonderful.
If you want hippie food, the market is great with a stock of raw foodist stuff, produce, etc. If you want richer food, the restaurant works. The value isn’t great but they serve lots of meat, so the carnivores are happy. If you’d rather fix your own food, there’s a huge communal kitchen you can use.
The pools come in cold, warm, and VERY HOT. It’s true that there’s no “Hot but not scalding” pool — we did fine alternating between the warm and VERY HOT pools.
Oh, and watsu, while unfortunately named, is pretty much awesome. Definitely recommended just as a pleasant experience. Who knows if it will heal what ails you, but it feels really nice.
While I didn’t see overt fucking anywhere, Harbin is definitely a nice place for couples — I saw a “JUST MARRIED!” sign on a car and have to say that this would be a great place for a hippie honeymoon.
I enjoyed the quietude of the grounds a lot — they’re very clear about no cell phones and a sense of retreat. As someone who’s normally plugged into the web 24/7, it was delicious to have such a sweet, quiet place to hang out for a few days.
I would recommend Harbin to: all ages of hippies, burners, soakers, trippers, honeymooners, romantics, body workers, therapists, woo-woo types, and meditation practitioners.
I do NOT recommend Harbin to: germ-phobes, people with low hippie/new age bullshit tolerance, naked-haters, or the sexually repressed.
PS: I took a couple pictures, but cameras are actually against the rules. If you want to know what Harbin’s like, here’s a good photo set.
Hey there. I'm Ariel Meadow Stallings, a native Seattleite who's written my way up and down the Left Coast. Electrolicious is where I post daily randomata, but I also write for a living. My first book, Offbeat Bride, is in bookstores now.
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Kerstyn
November 6th, 2007 at 3:47 pm
Sounds lucious!
Also sounds much like Breitenbush Hot Springs (about 2 hrs S. of Portland, OR); clothing optional, hippy, newage vibes. But BB is veggie, and is much more camping style, vs. day-spa feel.
How did I miss Harbin?? I grew up in Napa Valley, so I guess I just took the hot springs further north for granted, and didn’t go much further than Calistoga for it.(and then, of course, it’s less of a retreat, and much more a very pleasant tourist trap).
I’m a long-time reader of your blog; I enjoy your electronic self, Ariel!
Ariel
November 6th, 2007 at 3:58 pm
Kerstyn, it was odd: the little whole foods market and the communal kitchen were totally veggie — but the restaurant served lots of chicken and fish.
And yes, from what I understand it’s similar to Breitenbush. Maybe we’ll head there next!
amy.leblanc
November 6th, 2007 at 4:02 pm
harbin is one of my favorite places. (and hey! i didn’t know you were here! *pout*)
Ariel
November 6th, 2007 at 4:05 pm
Yep, we snuck in and out of town…and we were only in SF for a couple hours.
Janece
November 6th, 2007 at 5:05 pm
Looks wonderful, Ariel. Glad you two were able to get away.
Cinnamon
November 7th, 2007 at 10:45 am
I went to Harbin way back in about 1995 with my, then, body builder boyfriend (side note: what the???). We were easily the youngest people there at the time (we were both in our late 20s). And in the best shape (no longer true for me!).
We camped. I would NOT do that again. Naked camping is not as fun as it sounds. It’s…erm…prickly. And a little chilly. We were definitely making out a lot and there was even a “trio” of older people who were doing an awful lot of massaging of each other in sexual places. But, yes, on the whole…it’s less sexual and more SENSUAL. And I agree the Watsu was awesome. Although, the boychick who performed it on me was this adorable little fawn of a hippie boy with dreadlocks and who came up to me in the restaurant to tell me I had a beautiful aura. Boyfriend said he was hitting on me and didn’t want me to do the watsu…but I didn’t get sexuality vibes from fawn boy…just an open heart and healing hands.
I would like to return. Thanks for reminding me.
dori
November 7th, 2007 at 10:50 am
yay harbin! damn you were so close, too… my first date with the new amazing man was to harbin hot springs, on his motorcycle…
i highly recommend getting naked on the first date.
amy.leblanc
November 8th, 2007 at 1:50 pm
i think your note about people projecting is mostly the culprit for the negative reviews on YELP. for people who have limited comfortability with nudity and sexuality, i think if they see ANY sign of sex - even if it’s nonoffensive - they extrapolate that to the whole community, and any contact with strangers then becomes hypersexual, even if that’s not the intent.
that is not to say that it doesn’t exist at all - i have read some scary reports from people who did have or witnessed very inappropriate interactions, either with other guests or staff. however, i’ve been there many times and i myself have never seen anything out of order or had anyone say/do anything to me at harbin. the most i got was some guy commenting that i was ‘a brilliant shade of pink’ when i got out of the hot pool.
Tamara Worline
November 11th, 2007 at 4:34 pm
Hey sounds like it was a great trip for the two of you. Kaleo and I went there for a little retreat after I moved out of the house. Now I think you know that I am a hot spring fanatic and love the naked body, pretentious spiritual vegan yummy side of just about all hippy hot spring places, but I have to say going with Kaleo was an interesting experience.
When we arrived I was presented with a 15 min lecture on the specific do’s and don’ts of ‘bringing a child to Harbin’ Ok I understand rules, not everyone likes kids…so I can abide. However that was only the first in several ‘reminders’ that was issued to me from staffers and old harbin hippys. Now I know some parents let their kids run wild in a way that takes it’s toll on even the most child loving of hot springers, but I do not. I am conscientious, I will not keep my crying child around the meditation pool hoping he will eventually keep quiet…I move and fast, far, far away. We camped along the stream far away from others, we walked to the pools then back to camp for everything…a long treck with a 1.5 year old and all the gear that parents need to shlep along to keep kids happy.
However pools were limited in their use to me, strict times when kids cannot be in ANY pool, decks that were off limits to kids, activities that were off limits…and the biggest bummer, people treated me differently, no casual pool side chat ups by naked old man….COME ON when has that ever not happened to me at a hotspring? (ok actually that was a relief but even the cute ones acted like I was a lepper)
The moment Kaleo would utter a semi loud happy shriek people would glare at me, even go so far as to point the signs clearly stating the rules about children (even in the child sanctioned tub!) yes there were least three posted. I know Kaleo did a great job, far above what most kids his age would be like, he was happy, chill, rarely cried loved the water and all the people, loved sleeping in the tent and playing in the dirt. But I was fricken stressed out, worried that some naked lynch mob was right around the corner should they be forced to notice this CHILD in their midst.
I have since contacted two other local hot springs WHO DO NOT ALLOW kids under the age of 7!!!! This all got me thinking, am I wrong to think the hotsprings should be a family kind of place? Is it the tranquility of life without normal obligations that attracts us to places like Harbin and was I harshing on their high?
I was sad at peoples reactions and spoke to one other mom who was there that said she just puts up with the child haters and doesn’t care about the rules because she likes it there so much. This feels slightly uncomfortable to me as much as I would like to adopt her casual attitude. Sadly it was uncomfortable enough that we will not be going back as a family.
Funny but this is one of the things I eagerly looked forward to sharing with my son. My child was going to grow up knowing that hot springs are beautiful sacred spaces and naked bodies are all sacred temples. I am not done with my quest for the family hot spring but obviously I will have to drive quite a bit further than my local hot springs to enjoy the experience.
dori
November 11th, 2007 at 7:57 pm
tamara - at some point your son will be old enough to hang out with the grown-ups at the hot springs - however, most of us GO to hot springs to get away from and get rid stress, noise, etc.
i could probably just be labeled as one of those “evil people” for not wanting little kids at the hot springs but so be it - i don’t really want them there, either… i’m not a parent, and the sound of a shrieking child (whether in laughter or otherwise) is not really a sound i appreciate, and DEFINITELY not one i’d want to hear at the hot springs.
Tamara Worline
November 12th, 2007 at 8:32 am
Dori-I am not aware that any age limit statutes have been passed on hot springs. At the age of two I do consider him old enough to hang out with all people of every age that are also hanging out at the hotsprings.
Thanks for your comment, I don’t consider someone with your view an “evil person”, just someone sharing a different reality than my own. -Tamara
Mathias
March 18th, 2008 at 9:30 pm
Hey Everyone, I am just recently back from Harbin (1st time). I manage people for a living and find that at age 27, I’m feeling a little more like 47?? Don’t want to offend any 47 year olds, but you get my drift?
A friend who was taking a massage class told me it was clothing optional so I made some assumptions which were not even close.
It was great; I took off my clothes for the first time! No one was having sex that I could see. The library was great! You can blindly pick a book and be sure it’s good read.
I’ll finish up here…. As I walked the trail back to my tent, I felt a real sense of peace and started to smile, a true smile. I can’t wait to go back!